White Christmas

I'm dreaming of a white sandy beach Christmas in New Zealand or Samoa, but this year, I've got snow - lots of it. Here are photos from Washington DC, taken December 20th. Song = Frosti, by Bjork.

Still a Kiwi at Heart

Even though I am back in Washington DC, I still read the New Zealand Herald and the Dominion Post and I enjoy hearing stories of Kiwi innovation and inspiration. Here are two recent video clips from New Zealand. The first is from the "random acts" series of random singing performed by Pacific Islanders living in the Auckland area.

The second video is of a few mates that converted their van into an "amphibious van" and crossed the Cook Strait - one of the roughest crossings in the world!

Mel-bourne Again

I spent a few days in Melbourne to meet up with a friend, Jen (from Perth, Western Australia). It was great to see her after nearly 10 years (she taught in Samoa when I did). We picked things up right where we had left off without missing a beat (although it took a full night without sleep, just lots of talking). I also drove along Victoria's Great Ocean Road with a Kiwi (Kevin). Events like this make me realize how quickly life goes by, and the importance of enjoying every moment while keeping in touch with those friends and family I love. It's all a magnificent journey, and I have been lucky.

Click on the image below for a slideshow of photos to the tune "Walk in the Park" (played by the Wellington International Ukulele Orchestra):

From Movies

24

You might be familiar with the TV series 24, although I'd be surprised if it is still running. Basically Agent Jack Bauer heads an anti-terrorism unit and regardless of the origin of the terrorists or the type of terrorist attack, he has but 24 hours to save the day.

My final 24 hours in New Zealand were not as action-packed, but were wonderful nonetheless. They included a walk through some of my favorite parts of Wellington, a visit to a couple music shops and the Te Papa museum, and a last flat white and piece of cake at Sweet Mother's Kitchen, among other special stops.

Every time I spend living in a new place, I adjust and it becomes home. Whether in Ecuador, Samoa or New Zealand, I have managed to meet solid people (each country's best, I'm sure) and I gain an appreciation for the place. As good as the experiences have been, it is always a bittersweet ending when it comes time to leave. It's never a good time to leave something beautiful. Thankfully, I have an equally beautiful family (with aunts and uncles, and 13 nieces and nephews!) waiting for me at home.

But, back to New Zealand for a moment. I will miss walking or biking along Wellington Harbour every day. I'll miss the corner dairies, the flat whites, the fish and chips and the Embassy Theatre. I'll miss Courtenay Place, Cuba Street, Oriental Parade and Manners Mall. I'll miss the Botanical Gardens and the hills surrounding the city, and I'll miss the endless expanse of beautiful mountains, forests and coastline. I'll miss New Zealand's "no-nuclear" stance and its support for same sex marriage equality. I'll even miss being outnumbered 15 to 1 by sheep! Perhaps most of all I will miss the interesting mix of people - Maori, Pasifika, and Pakeha - and the constant influx of Islamic, Asian and others coming to make a new beginning for themselves in what is generally a very peaceful and progressive place.

Niue? No Way!

After completing work at the Office of the Auditor-General, I took a most relaxing week-long vacation in the small island country of Niue (the world's smallest self-governing country, with just about 1000 permanent residents!). I was looking for a far away place to empty my mind of any thoughts of New Zealand Police or the Local Government sector's Water Supply Asset Management Plans. The chapter of my life as a government auditor in New Zealand was coming to an end, and it was nearly time to return home.

I traveled around the island of Niue by bicycle (my second cross-country bicycle trip) and I met many wonderful people among some beautiful scenery. Niue is famous for its sea arches and limestone caves (the island, nicknamed "the Rock", is a coral atoll which was raised several times out of the ocean). The deep sea and reef fishing was also spectacular (thanks to my host, Des Hipa, from Teresa's guest house). Here are some snapshots of what I saw:

Last Day of Work

Today was my 35th birthday and my last day of work for the New Zealand Office of the Auditor-General (OAG). I had a wonderful experience at the OAG and met many intelligent Kiwis doing good and meaningful work. It was an honor to work alongside them, and to share in everything from audit process to Friday Floors (drinks) and practical jokes. I know that work for the U.S. federal government in Washington will not offer the same breadth of experience (and I fear the high level of bureaucracy a little bit!).

New Zealand Music Month

May has been New Zealand Music Month (see website). Unfortunately I missed many of the live performances, but I managed to expand my CD collection by about 8 albums, including the likes of Sola Rosa, Salmonella Dub, Tiki Taane, Fat Freddy's Drop, the Black Seeds, and the Wellington International Ukulele Orchestra.

Though I'm not usually a super-big hip-hop fan, I can't seem to get enough of Smashproof these days (LINK).



Here's another video for Smashproof's song, "Ordinary Life":

Travels with Flat Max

Over the past few weeks, I have been traveling with my "flat" nephew, Flat Max (see April 15 blog entry when Flat Max arrived in the mail).

Here is a slide show from our travels (NB: it's better to watch the You Tube version with music (on top), but if you cannot see it the photos are included below):

Sea Kayaking in Wellington Harbour

I had a great afternoon on the water today, with a kayak and camera. Wellington can be absolutely wonderful when the wind settles down, and it seems that everyone makes it a point to enjoy days like this.

  

Weta Studios

I visited the Weta Cave (link) this morning, a mini museum dedicated to promoting the work of the Weta Workshop (link). The Weta Workshop is a design and physical manufacturing facility in Wellington which services film makers like Peter Jackson (Lord of the Rings) and others. The video clips below will give an indication of the types of costumes, special effects and digital animation services created at the Weta Workshop.

The visitors centre has some life-size models of Gollum (a.k.a. Smeagol) and other Weta workshop creations

ANZAC Day - April 25th

Today was Anzac Day (Anzac = Australia and New Zealand Army Corps), a day which commemorates the first major military action fought by Australian and New Zealand forces. This took place  during the first World War at Gallipoli in Turkey on 25 April 1915 under a plan of Winston Churchill. Today, ANZAC Day more broadly commemorates Australians and NewZealanders who have died and served in military operations. 

Each year, dawn services take place throughout New Zealand. I and thousands of others attended the dawn parade and services in Wellington at 5:30 this morning.

   

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

In 1887, the Paramount Chief of the Tuwharetoa people - Te Heuheu Tukino IV - donated the mountain peaks of Tongariro, Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu to the nation of New Zealand. This gift was the genesis of Tongariro National Park and the first of its kind ever made by an indigenous people.

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing crosses over steep volcanic terrain and through the culturally significant area known as the Ketetahi Hot Springs. In the photos below, you will see Mt Tongariro (1967 m), Mt Ngauruhoe (2287 m) - that's Mt Doom for any Lord of the Rings fans - and Mt Ruapehu. You will also see Red Crater (1886 m), the Emerald Lakes and Blue Lake (Te Wai-Whakaata-o-te Rangihiroa). The total trek is 19.4 km (approximately 24 km including the hike to Mt Tongariro summit).  

FLAT MAX

This afternoon we received the mail delivery at work and I was surprised to find a visitor! My nephew, Max, had flattened himself and posted himself in the mail from Hull, Massachusetts to Wellington, New Zealand! 

After three very long flights amounting to a full day of travel, Flat Max hopped out of his padded envelope looking ready for an adventure. Unfortunately, we had to spend the rest of the afternoon in the Auditor-General's Office. 

Flat Max also came with a handwritten note:

April 8, 2009

Dear Uncle John,

I'd like for you to meet Flat Max. Would you mind if Flat Max stays with you for a week or two? When Flat Max is ready to come home you can mail him back to me. I'd love to hear all about your adventures with Flat Max. I wanted to let you know that Flat Max loves to have his photograph taken. Thank you for helping me with my school project.

Yours Truly,

Max

Hot Cross Buns

One thing I have really enjoyed about living in New Zealand is some of it's charm. One example of this is its hot cross buns (link). On Ash Wednesday (the first day of Lent), the bakeries in town begin selling the delicious sweet buns (pictured below). I have been invited to two hot cross bun parties today (Good Friday) to celebrate the Easter weekend with friends.

Oh, another thing I really like is that Good Friday and Easter Monday are both national holidays in New Zealand!

Oxfam Trailwalker 2009

This weekend, I went to Lake Taupo area to support friends doing the Oxfam Trailwalker 100 KM walk. I completed this walk last year and wanted to be a support crew member this year. 

The team, 1step@atime.com, completed the 100 KM walk in just over 25 hours and raised over $3250 for Oxfam's programs (click on this link to see the team's homepage). Congratulations to Susan, Kaye, Helen and Kirsty for completing the hilly off-road walk in just over 25 hours! 

Here is a map of the walking route:

Here are some photos along the walk: 

Terracotta Warriors

The Terracotta Warriors (funerary statues of soldiers and horses for the first Emperor of China) came to town and have been staged at the St. James Theatre for a few months. Here are a few photos I took this morning when I walked through the exhibit:

Did you remember to switch the lights off?

In 2007, the city of Sydney turned its lights off for one hour as a sign of support for urgent action on climate change. In 2008, hundreds of cities around the world joined in by switching off their lights. This year, thousands of cities have joined the symbolic movement. Have you? Please consider taking the first step at 8:30 PM on Saturday night. You're just one person, but there are over 6 billion like you.

Strange Resting Places

One of the benefits of living on Courtenay Place is the ready access to many live stage theatres. Tonight I went to see "Strange Resting Places" - three guys re-enacting stories inspired by the Maori Battalion in Italy (WWII). Equipped with a few guitars and  some creating acting, these guys really put on a show!

  

Walk to Work Day

Today was "Walk to Work" day in Wellington (you might recall that the city also sponsors "Go by Bike" day). The City Council sponsors the event each year to provide a free breakfast for those who walk (or bike) to work, and to raise awareness about the benefits of commuting on foot or bicycle. Here are a few photos of what I see on my commute to work each morning.

Eastern Cape

Here are photos from a road trip I took over the weekend to the Eastern Cape of New Zealand (including Napier (the Art Deco Capital of New Zealand), Gisborne, Whangara, Opotiki, and Rotorua). If you think you recognize the photos, you may be right - several of them were taken on sight where the Whalerider movie was filmed. Thanks to Kara for showing me around his home patch and to his father for showing me a tour of the marae in Whangara.

Tomorrow will be 2m 47s shorter

I am a bit of a weather buff - and I keep the Boston and Wellington weather links on my iGoogle homepage. The two cities, each being approximately 45 degrees from the equator, have provided an interesting comparison. In particular, it's amazing to see the difference that the continental land mass (the U.S.) makes with regard to distinct seasons that the maritime conditions of New Zealand just do not provide. What we lack in seasonal change we make up for with one great asset - WIND - lots of it!

But, today, I'm not writing about wind or climate. I'm writing about the sad fact that "tomorrow will be 2 minutes and 47 seconds shorter" (this is what the google weather page says, in terms of daylight). We're still managing more than 12 hours of sunlight each day, but I know I'll have to give that up soon. Perhaps it is time for me to move back home to the Far North.

WELLINGTON:

Sunrise: 7:12 AM NZDT
Sunset: 7:48 PM NZDT
Length of Day: 12h 35m

Tomorrow will be 2m 47s shorter.

Moon Rise: 7:31 PM NZDT
Moon Set: 6:58 AM NZDT
Moon Phase: Full Moon, 100% Illuminated

Newtown Festival 2009

I'm on my way to the Newtown Festival (website). I'll post some of my photos later, but for now I have borrowed a video from a post on Vimeo. My friends will find this funny because I don't like cats at all (and for some reason, a cat gets an inordinate amount of air time toward the beginning of this video). It is still a very enjoyable video about the festival in what I consider the heart of Wellington - Newtown.

Newtown Festival: Fair Day (4:45 min.) from Justine Flanagan on Vimeo.

Wellington International Ukulele Orchestra

On Saturday night I went to the Jackson Street Fiesta in Petone. The Wellington International Ukulele Orchestra played and made it truly worth the trip out there. One of the best songs they did was Heartache (Bonnie Tyler). This made me smile for a few reasons - first because the group of ukuleles and one bass were so good, but also because my brother Mark used to have to practice to this song when he was learning to play drums twenty years ago (remember that, Mark?). It brought back some wonderful memories. 

This video (from You Tube) is of the Ukulele Orchestra - take a look and listen, they truly are a band for kids from 1 to 92! (Website)

A Beautiful Ray (on a spectacular day by the bay)

While running this evening along Oriental Parade, I saw an amazing stingray (probably 3 feet wide and 4 feet long). It slowly glided through water along the seawall and attracted increasing numbers of spectators as walkers and joggers stopped to take a look. It was quite remarkable that this beautiful creature could bring people together in such a unique way.

Every day since living in New Zealand, I have been within a few feet of the ocean - once in the morning and once in the afternoon. I've also made a point to run along the oceanfront and in the hills that look down onto it. Its colours change with the sun and clouds, and there's so much underneath that I still haven't seen. Today it felt like I had made contact with another world....

The Navigators (Fuse Circus)

Regrettably, summer is winding down in Wellington and the Earth is beginning to tilt its Northern half toward the sun... but NOT JUST YET! There have still been some entertaining events around the city. One example is the Fuse Circus show, the Navigators. I took some video footage, but this video covered by the New Zealand news station  is a lot better than mine. Take a look - the group is really fantastic! This is busking community theatre at its best with stage costumes designed by the crew that worked on King Kong and Chronicles of Narnia. 

LINK TO VIDEO

Cuba Street Carnival

Every two years, the Wellington City Council sponsors the Cuba Street Carnival, and 2009 marked the 10th event! With an estimated 150,000 people in attendance, it was the next best thing to being in Rio de Janeiro. With 80 bands playing throughout the city and several food stalls and vendors, it's unlikely that anyone had a less-than-ideal day and night. Here is a video of the event (courtesy of Snapstar):

Snapstar TV ep1. Cuba Street Carnival. from Snapstar TV on Vimeo.

Nightswimming

After going to the movies with friends (to watch Slumdog Millionaire), I went for a short run. It was about 10 pm and nearly a full moon just perched over Mount Victoria. It was a rare, calm and warm evening, so I decided to go for a swim in the ocean after the run. A thin layer of mist blurred the line where ocean ends and sky begins. It was beautiful.    

New Zealand International Rugby Sevens

This weekend was Wellington's biggest party weekend - "The Sevens" International Rugby Tournament. The 10th anniversary of the two-day tournament saw teams from 16 countries (including Kenya, England, Argentina, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and others) compete for the shield. Crowds of more than 30,000 spectators showed up in "fancy dress" (costumes) and the partying continued for more than 60 continuous hours. 

Teletubbies at the Sausage Sizzle
PIs (Pacific Islanders)
Niue Team Haka

New Zealand Scores a Try!

One Love Concert

I dropped by the tail end of the One Love concert this evening to see the Black Seeds, a Wellington-based reggae band. Other New Zealand bands included Unity Pacific, The Little Bushman and others.

Here's a video from the Black Seeds, shot in New Zealand:

Waitangi Day

February 6th is Waitangi Day - a day to celebrate the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi (New Zealand's founding document, signed in 1840). The Treaty made New Zealand a part of the British Empire, guaranteed Māori rights to their land and gave Māori the rights of British citizens living in New Zealand. There are significant differences between the Māori and English language versions of the Treaty, and virtually since 1840 this has led to debate (and several court cases) over exactly what was agreed to at Waitangi. [source: Wikipedia]

The following photos and video are from events at Waitangi Park in Wellington. One of the greatest parts of living in Wellington is the range of music and cultural offerings in the city.

So many Polynesians have beautiful singing voices or musical talent, even if they cannot read music. They often times learn to sing in church. The second two videos are of an award-winning barbershop quartet based in Wellington - four guys who started singing together in high school and continue to do so while in university. Their singing has won them several awards and provided the opportunity to travel internationally. In a country where Polynesians are often treated as second-class citizens, it is really encouraging to see those that rise above and excel in ways that many of us couldn't achieve.

My apologies for my shaky hand at the camera and the wind interfering with the sound quality.



Musical Island Boys (Wellington-based Barbershop Quartet)

Pasifika Festival, Wellington

This weekend, Wellington City Council hosted its second annual Pasifika Festival. The weather was warm and sunny and the turnout of hundreds of Pacific Islanders, Maori and Pakeha was really encouraging. With dances and singing from many of the Pacific Islands, it was a wonderful event. These videos are from a Samoan group - sorry about the over-exposure, but the singing is well worth listening to.

U.S. Presidential Inauguration

The U.S. Presidential inauguration made front-page news in New Zealand.  It made me wonder whether most Americans realize the impact the country and its leadership has on the rest of the world.  By the way, can you name the Prime Minister of New Zealand? (answer: John Key, National Party).

Siva Afi (Samoan Fire Knife Dance)

The Samoan "Siva Afi" (Fire-Knife Dance) has a history which goes back several generations. As the name implies, the dance is performed by wrapping a machete in towels at either end with a portion of the knife exposed. The knife is generally lit on fire on one end and the performer begins by putting fire from the lit end into his mouth (see photo) to light the other end. With the two ends lit, the dancer performs acrobatic feats while twirling the knife around, behind his back and between his legs. Here are a few videos I shot of a performance from my last trip to Samoa.  The slow-motion videos are for you to learn the moves and practice at home:

Samoa

Just after two weeks in Tonga, I spent 4 days in the office and then flew to Samoa for the weekend.  Extravagant?  Yes.  Worth it?  Definitely!  Here are a couple photos of people I came across while cruising around the island of 'Upolu.  Samoans are generally very friendly, proud, welcoming, forgiving, charismatic, and very good-natured.  This is a place where I will return again and again - in my mind, if not in actuality.

Slideshow of Photos from Samoa:

Closing of Catholic Senior School

After 28 years of providing form 6 education to students from all over Samoa, the Catholic Senior School shut its doors.   I lived at the school for 3 years (1997-2000) and taught chemistry, math and physics as a U.S. Peace Corps volunteer.  These were, and likely will always be, among the most enjoyable and vivid years of my life.  Samoa opened a whole new world and has provided me with many pleasant memories.  After 10 years, I clearly remember the laughter, the beautiful singing, and the creativity of the students. 

The closing ceremony included a mass and a huge dinner with a live band, three roasted pigs, a roasted cow (!) and lots of Vailima (Samoa's very own beer).   

The photos below are from 1997-1999, when I lived in Moamoa and taught at the school.  Two of the students from the photo above are in the photos below (Matthew and Helen).  Can you spot them?   More photos from 1997-1999 are in my online photo album (click here). 

Tonga

Two weeks in Tonga for Christmas and New Years Eve were absolutely beautiful.  Much of the time was spent around the capital town of Nuku'alofa ("Village of Love")  and the main island, Tongatapu ("Sacred South").  Photos are of a boat we took to a nearby island, a man fishing along the reef's edge, Hufangalupe ("Pigeon's Gate"), the Mapu'a 'a Vaca ("Chief's Whistle") Blowholes, and the Ha'amonga 'a Maui ("Maui's Burden") Trilithon.   

The best part of the trip was the opportunity to stay with Teki's (Tongan) family and enjoy local food.  A few archeological sites are well preserved, including the trilithon in the bottom picture which is made of limestone taken from the Wallis Islands (West of Samoa) and constructed in the early 13th century.  Snorkelling was also fantastic.